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A new training method for rock climbing

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Overview

This article summarizes the content of the Lattice Training video, “The NEW Way to Training for Rock Climbing”, which introduces innovative training methods for climbers. It specifically explores the concept of Critical Force and discusses a new training modality called “Carcing.”

Carcing is an off-wall training method that involves applying low-intensity loads to the fingers for extended periods. It is touted as an effective way to improve endurance, and the video provides a verification of its effects through experimental data.

Contents

What is Carcing?

• Origin of the Name: It is similar to “Arcing” but was dubbed “Carcing” because it can be performed while driving.
• Mechanism: By gripping at a low intensity for a long duration, it promotes aerobic capacity and capillary development.
• Success Story: Coach Jonny Kydd cites this training as a key factor in sending his 6-year V15 project.

Benefits of Carcing

• Skin Conservation: It puts significantly less stress on the skin compared to on-wall training.
• Energy System Capacity: Training endurance off the wall allows for an increase in base-level energy system capacity.
• Universal Physiology: A fundamental truth of muscle physiology is that intramuscular adaptations occur regardless of the specific exercise modality.
• Muscle Perception: The finger flexors do not distinguish between holding an edge, squeezing a foam ball, or using a gripper.
• Stimulus over Specificity: When training endurance and energy systems, the specific movement matters less than ensuring blood flow to the muscles and stimulating mitochondria at the appropriate intensity.

The Experiment

Methodology

• Duration: 4 weeks.
• Setup: One arm performed “Carcing” for 3 hours per week (the experimental group), while the other arm served as the control group.
• Protocol:
• Experimental arm: 1 hour per session, 3 times a week.
• Intensity: Maintained at Zone 2 (aerobic).
• Target Sensation: Continued until a dull ache was felt after 20–30 minutes.
• Measurement:
• A Critical Force (CF) Test was conducted before and after the experiment.
• The test measures Max Strength, Rate of Force Development (RFD), $W’$ (Anaerobic Work Capacity), and Critical Force (Aerobic Capacity).

The Critical Force (CF) Test

The concept of Critical Force was significantly advanced by a research group led by David Giles (Lattice Training Ltd.), with two major papers published in 2019 and 2020.

Testing Protocol (Giles et al.):

The method involves four separate tests, ideally completed on different days with adequate rest.

Max Strength: Determine the maximum weight that can be held for 20 seconds on a 7mm edge using both arms. Load is increased gradually to reach failure within 6–8 repetitions, with 2-minute rests.

“It is crucial to ensure all tests are performed in a half-crimp position.” — Philippe Bulling

7:3 Repeaters: Perform 7 seconds of hanging followed by a 3-second rest until failure. This is done at three different loads: 80%, 60%, and 45% of the previously determined maximum force. If the required load is less than body weight, a pulley system is used for assistance.

The Curve: Plotting the time to failure ($t_{80\%}$, $t_{60\%}$, $t_{45\%}$) against the loads creates a curve. This curve asymptotically approaches a constant value — this value is the Critical Force.

“Critical Force represents the force an athlete can theoretically maintain indefinitely.” — Philippe Bulling

When the load exceeds Critical Force, the additional energy required is drawn from the energy store $W’$. The higher the load, the faster this store is depleted. Once $W’$ is exhausted, the athlete can only maintain a load equal to the Critical Force.

Results

• Max Strength: Experimental arm improved by 3.4%; Control arm improved by 0.7%.
• Rate of Force Development (RFD): Experimental arm slowed by 125ms; Control arm improved by 11ms.
• Critical Force: Experimental arm improved by 7.1%; Control arm decreased by 2.5%.
• $W’$ (Anaerobic Work Capacity): Experimental arm decreased; Control arm increased.

Interpretation

Max Strength

Max strength is the peak force a muscle can generate (often measured as 1RM).

• Significance: Higher max strength allows climbers to pull through harder moves and hold smaller holds more easily.
• Interpretation: The 3.4% increase suggests that even low-intensity “Carcing” provides enough stimulus to the finger flexors to yield strength gains. The control group’s slight gain likely stems from testing familiarity.

Rate of Force Development (RFD)

RFD measures how quickly a muscle can generate force (explosive power).

• Significance: Critical for dynamic moves and “snapping” onto holds.
• Interpretation: The significant decrease in the experimental arm suggests muscle fatigue. High-volume, low-intensity training can lead to accumulated fatigue that temporarily reduces the ability to produce force rapidly.

Critical Force (CF)

CF is the ceiling for sustainable exercise intensity.

• Significance: A higher CF means a climber can climb higher intensities for longer without pumping out. It is a benchmark for aerobic capacity.
• Interpretation: The 7.1% improvement confirms that Carcing is highly effective at enhancing the aerobic capacity of the finger flexors.

$W’$ (Anaerobic Work Capacity)

$W’$ represents the “battery” or “tank” for high-intensity, anaerobic work.

• Significance: Influences the ability to perform a sequence of powerful moves in a short window.
• Interpretation: The decrease in the experimental group suggests that focusing heavily on aerobic “base” training may lead to a temporary depletion or shift away from anaerobic stores, or simply that the volume of Carcing hindered anaerobic recovery.

Conclusion

• Carcing is a non-specific endurance training method that shows genuine potential for improving climbing performance.
• It is particularly effective for climbers needing improved endurance and recovery.
• Limitation: It does not improve mobility or technical skill.
• Best For: Time-crunched climbers or boulderers looking to build a base level of endurance.

Caveats

• The experiment was conducted with a sample size of one ($N=1$), so broader research is required.
• The optimal intensity, duration, and frequency remain largely unknown.
• Recommendation: Avoid jumping into long sessions immediately; increase training duration gradually.